Yesterday we headed off to the Jewish Ghetto;food display at one of the restaurants we passed there. On our way we passed another archeological dig called Portico di Ottavia. (I'll go back to the Ghetto, as we did not get into the Synagogue or the Museum.) Then we were on to the Isola Tiberina, in the middle of the Tiber, which really houses only a church, which was closed and a hospital. We had a gelato on our way, and decided to go to one of the five catacombs in Rome. Once again, getting there was much of the fun-or frustration-depending on how we looked at it! The catacombs are all a bit off the “beaten” track transportation-wise. (One lady told Dayle it took them two hours to get there, which made us feel a little better!) They are all off the Appian Way, which I remembered from Latin(!!), along with “All of Gallia is divided into four parts.” We did finally get to the correct bus to take us to our destination. (Thanks, Michelin!)
How do you decide which Catacomb you want to see? Each guidebook gives them a different spin….Luck or chance took us to St. Calixtus Catacombs, which the guidebook says is “the first official Christian cemetery; our guide said it was the oldest in Rome. No matter….over 12 miles of underground tunnels connect half a million tombs. We were some 40 feet underground, and it was a very delightful 15*C. Some 3rd C. Popes and St. Cecilia had been buried there, but have since been moved. A very interesting tour we all agreed!
We came back for a quick change, and then Dayle and Mallory(GRAZIE!) took me out for my “birthday” dinner, in honor of why I’m on this trip AFTER all! We went to Hostaria del Moro da Tony in Trastevere which we just happened upon. It turns out that it is #46on the Trip Advisor rating out of 1910 restaurants in Rome! I had a really delicious Chicken Parm, since I’ve had no chicken since I’ve been here; I know it doesn’t sound too creative, but it was GREAT! For dessert I had another favorite, crème caramel, and that was the first time I’ve had it since I arrived. (I wish I could say the same for gelato, which seems to call me as I walk by….)
We were out early this morning, as Dayle and Mallory’s flight was at 10:55. We caught the bus about 7:30 to the Termini Station, and they headed off to the airport. We said good byes, and I had to check some connection info for future trips. I also bought a Roma Pass, which for 25 euros, gives me free admission to two sights and 40% off other places on the list in a three day period. I did run into McDonald’s for coffee and a blueberry muffin (for shame-maybe less fat grams than a croissant!).
Then I went to the John Keats’ House, right next to the bottom of the Spanish steps, so now I have walked down three times. (I think it is the equivalent of six or seven stories.) Keats, the”Young English Poet”, died of consumption/tuberculosis at 25, in this bedroom.
I came back to my now quiet digs at Piazza Franchesco Cucchi 3 about 1. Rosa, the cleaning lady is supposed to come on Tuesdays, but again she is a “no-show”. I did a wash, as running the European washing machine is now "a piece or cake"; clothes dry on a drying rack on the porch off the kitchen. In the Roman heat they dry in no time!
So now I’m doing what I’d do if visiting friends had just left…figuring out what I will do next! What else do I want to see or see again? Where else will I go? Rita, another Couch Surfing “friend” who lives near the Vatican, has invited me to come to lunch tomorrow, so that is on the calendar for tomorrow.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
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